Archibald Simpson

Archibald Simpson was born on 4th May 1790, his parents’ ninth child, in a house on Guestrow, Aberdeen. Much of Guestrow was demolished during the slum clearance, but a plaque is in place on what remains of the road (parallel to Broad Street across from the Town House extension). At Aberdeen Grammar School Archibald Simpson was a contemporary of the poet Byron. At the age of 13 he went to Marischal College but had to leave a year later when his father died. At the age of 20 he went to London as an apprentice architect, later spending some time in Italy before returning to Aberdeen in 1813 where he opened his architectural practice in his old home in Guestrow. He moved the practice a number of times, to Union Street (where a fire destroyed all his drawings), Belmont Street and finally to Bon Accord Street. There are, or were, because some have been lost, many important buildings designed by Archibald Simpson in the city. The Assembly Rooms, now the Music Hall, is one of his prominent buildings, currently undergoing restoration. Others include The Old Royal Infirmary, St Andrew’s Cathedral, the Triple Kirks and the Athaneum.

Post 70(a) East Kirk from the south
Archibald Simpson’s East Kirk from the south

Simpson also designed the East Kirk of St Nicholas in 1835. Following the demolition of the previous East Kirk, the new building was built and then dedicated in 1837. It is worth noting that John Smith, as city architect, disapproved of the design. The first photograph shows the building as it now appears, which is more or less unaltered from his day.

 

Post 70(b) Archibald Simpson Grave
Archibald Simpson’s simple grave stone

 

Archibald Simpson died when only 56 years old. He had been away on business to Edinburgh and then Derby. On his return he was showing signs of developing a fever. Over the next few days at his home at 1 East Craibstone Street, he rapidly deteriorated and died on 23rd March 1847 just one week after his return. He had been a bachelor, played the violin and was variously described as ‘a little, active man, always carrying plans under his arms’, ‘shy and retiring’ and having ‘a strong and eccentric character’.

As befits a man of granite, his grave in the Kirkyard at the Kirk of St Nicholas, is marked by a simple granite slab at ground level, close to the East Kirk building, as shown in the second photograph.

The bells – bringing the story up to date

 

Aberdeen Art Gallery and Museums Collection
Some of the bells. Some have two clappers to allow them to be used for the Westminster chime

By 1952 the carillon in the Kirk of St Nicholas had been used very sparingly for the previous 50 years or more. Things were about to change. That year Queen Elizabeth acceded to the throne and the City Council decided that the bells should be recast so that they could be used properly. Accordingly Messrs. Gillett and Johnston of Croydon were given the contract. During the process, the composition of the metal was corrected. Back in the spire, the old wooden frame for the bells was replaced by a steel framework. The bells were rehung later in 1952 and dedicated on 31st October 1952 at which ceremony a recital was given by Clifford Ball, Carillonneur at Bournemouth. A magnificent sound was heard demonstrating that the recasting had been successful. A plaque in Drum’s Aisle records the recasting.

Post 69 (a) List of bells in carillon DSCN0381
The list of bells with pitch and dimensions

So popular was the new sound that in 1954 the Council decided to add a further 11 bells to the carillon, also made by Gillett and Johnston. These were dedicated on 17th September 1954 and Clifford Ball again gave a recital. One of the photographs is of a framed list giving details of each of the bells, which together have a 4-octave range. It is the largest carillon in the United Kingdom (along with one other). Some of the bells, which are a floor above the actual carillon (where the louvres are in the tower), have two clappers. This is to allow the bells to be used with the clock. The Westminster Chime is normally sounded every quarter of an hour, the clock activating the mechanism which is operated by compressed air. There is also a mechanism which would allow automatic playing of some music through something like a large musical box with metal pins (shown in photograph).

Aberdeen Art Gallery and Museums Collection
The system for automatic playing with some drums

 

Since the recast bells were installed, there has been a City Carillonneur. The present incumbent is Ronnie Leith, who gives recitals at various times. Most common is before worship on a Sunday morning, but also through the week, especially in summer.

Ronald Leith City Carilloneur Playing the Carillon in St Nicholas Church Aberdeen Art Gallery and Museums Collection
Ronald Leith, City Carilloneur, playing the carillon

 

 

 

 

 

 

Aberdeen Art Gallery and Museums Collection
The largest bell which sounds the hour

 

 

 

 

The previous posts about the bells were on 12th March and 9th April 2016.

The young Jesus in the temple

In New Testament times, devote Jewish families tried to visit the Temple in Jerusalem each year for the Festival of Passover. When he was 12 years old Jesus went with his family as part of a larger group. After the Festival was over, the group set off back for their homes in Nazareth. Jesus’ parents assumed he was with the group and it was only at the end of the first day of walking when they could not find him that they realised their mistake. The anxiety can be imagined as they hurried back to the big city looking for him. After three days of frantic searching they found him in the Temple courts asking questions and debating with the teachers of the Law. People were amazed at his understanding. The full story can be found in St Luke’s Gospel, Chapter 2, verses 41-52.

Post 68 Jesus in the temple
Mary and Joseph find Jesus debating with the teachers of the Law in the Temple

All the stained glass windows in St Mary’s Chapel feature Mary, Jesus’ mother. In the apse, there is a large window, which depicts three scenes, two of which have featured previously. To the right hand side of the window is a depiction of the scene above, as interpreted by Christopher Whall, the artist who created the window in 1899. The image shows Jesus, obviously making a point in the discussion with the wise old teachers. They have out some of the scrolls they have been talking about and look a little perplexed. In the background, looking through the window, are Jesus’ parents, Mary and Joseph.

Broken bones

Broken bones happen! They are a nuisance and can be painful, but given correct medical input and with time, they will heal. The detailed healing process is fairly complex and occurs in distinct stages. The first of these is the ‘reactive stage’ when there is an inflammatory response and the start of laying down new cells. This stage normally lasts for 3-5 days. Next is the ‘reparative stage’ when cartilage and then bone cells are laid down, a process which can take up to 12 weeks, but can be as short as 2 weeks. Finally there is the ‘remodelling stage’ during which the original bone structure is fully restored. The duration of this final stage is very variable and can take several years to complete. The time taken to heal varies with the location of the bone (a finger takes about 2 weeks, whilst the femur can be about 12 weeks) but it will also depend on many other factors such as age, smoking, nutrition, underlying diseases and related drug treatments. Medical intervention is normally fairly straightforward and involves ‘pushing’ the bones back in place and then stabilising them during the natural healing process.

 

During the archaeological dig in the former East Kirk of St Nicholas a large number of human remains were found – as expected in what had been a graveyard before the building was extended over it. Amongst these, several examples of fractures in different states of healing were found. We are grateful to Paul Duffy of Brandanii Archaeology for doing the detailed analysis and taking the photographs. A few examples are shown here to illustrate some of the different situations which were found.

Post 67 (a) Unhealed at time of death rib fracture in old man
No healing of fractured rib

In the first example, a rib has been broken and no healing has taken place. Obviously we do not know why it was broken, but the break must have occurred a fairly short time before death. It could even have been an injury received at the time of death.

 

 

 

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Well healed bone

 

The second example is of a bone which had been broken but which has healed. The ‘remodelling phase’ is not quite complete as the bone has not regained its normal profile – there is still some callous causing a small budge at the site of the fracture.

 

 

Post 67 (c)  Mis-aligned heal of tibia
Shortened leg due to bad ‘setting’

The third example is of a fracture which has fully healed but, as can be clearly seen, the bone was not ‘set’ properly before healing took place. The two halves have fused together and there is a smooth profile to the bone. This is a tibia (lower leg bone), which means that this person would have had one leg shorter than the other by three inches or more.

 

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Lower arm bones fused preventing rotation

 

The final example is of the lower forearm. The breaks here were not set properly, if at all. However, the bones have fused – but in two separate places. The normal rotational movement of the lower arm is possible because the two bones, the radius and ulna, can rotate around each other. This unfortunate person would have lost that ability and would have been left with very little useful movement in that arm.

St Mary’s Chapel – open times summer 2016

St Mary’s Chapel was built around 1450 before the Kirk of St Nicholas was expanded to its present size towards the end of that century. It is a special place, often described as ‘one of the hidden gems of Aberdeen’. It has a stone-vaulted ceiling, beautiful stained glass, the walls have mostly 17th century carved wood panels, and there is some dating from 1508. Set in the floor are grave stones some of which show the links between the building in the castles of Drum and Crathes.

 

The Chapel will be open to the public on four Saturdays over the summer between 10 am and 12.30 pm on 14th May, 11th June, 9th July and 13th August. Entry is free, there will be people there to explain and answer questions, but please note that access involves difficult steps and the floors inside are uneven. Entry is by the door at the top of Correction Wynd.

 

The Chapel will also be open on Doors Open Day on 10th September between 10 am and 4 pm.

Post 3 (c) St Mary's Chapel in 2010

A Bridled Woman?

St Mary’s Chapel has a large number of carved stone corbels, some of which will be featured in future posts. However, the one shown here is something of an enigma, because it is hung on the wall and is not part of the structure of the building. Where it was originally is not known.

In years gone by there was an offence, called in Latin communis rixatrix. Those words are in the feminine gender, so it was something that only women could commit. The ‘crime’ was to be a troublesome and angry female, who broke the public peace by habitually arguing and quarrelling. The common phrase was a ‘common scold’. The punishment was to put a bridle on the woman’s head, which included a bit, or something equivalent, in her mouth to press down on the tongue. Some were quite horrendous with sharp spikes on the bit. In Scotland this contraption was often called a brank’s bridle (or simply branks), with the first recorded instance of its use in 1567. It was supposed to be a minor punishment and was often inflicted on female offenders by Kirk Sessions and barony courts. Presumably the intention of the punishment was to stop the woman from speaking, hence the other common name: ‘the gossip bridle’. Quite often, the woman concerned was paraded in public then tied to the town cross or a similar prominent place. The duration of this humiliation would be determined by the Kirk Session or barony court. One assumes that the pain, discomfort and public humiliation was intended to act as a deterrent to others. In England and Wales the actual law was abolished as recently as 1967. It should also be noted that there are records of the branks being used on men – so in reality it was not just for women!

Post 66 Bridled women in SMC South Aise
The ‘bridled woman’ head in St Mary’s Chapel

In the photograph the bridle going through the mouth can be clearly seen. So what is a carved head such as this doing in a church? We just do not know! It seems unlikely that it was intended to be part of the building in the same way as the other corbels. Perhaps a previous Kirk Session had decided that this carving should be made and displayed to the congregation as a warning! Any (sensible) suggestions would be welcome!

The Bells – part 2

Following the destruction of the bells in the fire of 1874 and the rebuilding of the spire (see Blog on 13th March 2016), there was common agreement that new bells should be installed. A century and a half ago it was common practice for the bells to be ‘shared’ between church and council, the former using them on Sundays whilst their weekday use was primarily civic. Unfortunately in this case there was disagreement between the Kirk and the civic authorities on who should control the peal and its hours of ringing. In 1881, after 6 years of argument, the Kirk Session relinquished control to the Town Council. During this time without bells, and until new bells were in place, the authorities of St Mary’s Roman Catholic Cathedral in Huntly Street, which had a chime of nine bells, ‘very courteously rang their bells on Sundays to suit other church-going folk than their own’.

 

Aberdeen Art Gallery and Museums Collection
A general view of the carillon keyboard

After considerable debate, it was decided that a carillon would be installed in the Kirk rather than a peal of bells for change ringing. In a carillon, the bells are fixed in position and it is the clapper which is moved to make the sound. The clappers are connected to a keyboard using wires and metal levers. The keyboard looks a bit like a large piano, but rather than keys it has pegs which are struck or stroked by the hand. Each key is connected to the appropriate bell. Most carillons also have a pedal board similar to that on an organ and also connected to the appropriate bell clapper. Thus several bells may be played at the same time, and in quick succession, which allows quite complex music to be played by one person. The photograph shows the carillon ‘keys’ in the present carillon at the Kirk of St Nicholas.

Aberdeen Art Gallery and Museums Collection
Some of the bells in the present carillon

With the decision taken to have a carillon, it was agreed to order 36 bells from Severin van Aershodt of Louvain in Belgium. An indication of popularity of the move can be gauged from the fact that no less than 30 of the bells were donated by local churches, public bodies and individuals. The remaining six were gifted by the Council. A thirty-seventh bell was later given by Alexander Lyon Jr when he became Convener of the Bells Committee.

Post 65 (c) 1887 Bells from press DSCN0609
The procession of the bells around the streets
Post 65 (d) 'Victoria' arriving in Aberdeen 1887
The bell ‘Victoria’ during the procession

When complete, the bells were shipped to Leith and brought to Aberdeen by rail. On the afternoon of 12th May 1887 they were paraded on horse-drawn lorries on a circuitous route on the streets of Aberdeen eventually arriving at the Kirk for mounting in the spire (see photographs). The inauguration and dedication ceremony took place on 18th June 1887, during the Jubilee celebrations of Queen Victoria. The largest bell was duly named ‘Victoria’ and was used for striking the hours. However, it rapidly became obvious that there was a big problem because the sound produced by the bells was not good, some reports suggest barely audible. Reports suggest that there were three problems: the design of the mechanical action was poor; the bells were not tuned accurately; the metal used for the bells had insufficient tin, which produced a very poor tone. Thus after the excitement, there was disappointment, resulting in the bells hardly being used, apart from playing hymn and psalm tunes on the lower pitched bells before church on Sunday mornings.

We will bring the story up to date in the next Blog on the bells in a few weeks.

Easter Day

After the horror and desolation of Good Friday, today is the day when Christians celebrate the resurrection of Jesus on Easter Day. This is the foundation of the Christian faith, showing as it does the divine Jesus, that he is indeed the Son of God. Christians believe that through the sacrifice of Jesus and his resurrection, no matter what we do, it is still possible for us to be reconciled with God.

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It is not easy to represent the resurrection. Often Jesus was shown as the Paschal Lamb. This is a reference to the Old Testament practice of animal sacrifice as an atonement for sin. So, Jesus is seen as the ultimate sacrifice. However, in many non-conformist churches an empty cross is often used to show that Jesus is no longer crucified and dead. The photograph is of a grave memorial in the Kirkyard of the Kirk of St Nicholas. It is an empty cross carved by the stonemason to appear as though it were made from tree trunks.

Good Friday

Today is remembered throughout the western Christian world as Good Friday – the day when Jesus was crucified. It has become one of the commonest themes for religious art over the centuries.

 

Post 63 Mary at crucifixion Strachan window, SMC
St Mary at the crucifixion of Jesus

St Mary’s Chapel was built at a lower level in the middle of the 15th century to allow the expansion of the Kirk of St Nicholas above the valley of the Putachie Burn. It was used for a number of years by a group of ladies who focussed their devotion on the suffering of Mary, the mother of Jesus, at the time of the crucifixion. The photograph with this blog shows the right hand light of the window created by Aberdeen artist Douglas Strachan for the Chapel. This is half of Strachan’s first stained glass window. The image portrays the words in John’s Gospel chapter 19 verses 25-27 “Near the cross of Jesus stood his mother ….  When Jesus saw his mother standing there and the disciple whom he loved standing nearby, he said to her, ‘Woman here is your son’ and to the disciple, ‘Here is your mother’. From that time on, this disciple took her into his home”. The image created by Strachan shows Mary, with a sad and forlorn look on her face, resting on ‘the disciple’ with Jesus on the cross looking down on them.

Bells (part 1)

Bells have been used over the centuries at times of rejoicing, to warn of danger and in times of mourning. Most bells are located in churches where they have an additional use – to call the faithful to worship. With a known history spanning more than 8 centuries and its central location, it is hardly surprising that the Kirk of St Nicholas has a story to tell about its bells. Exactly when the first one was installed is not known. There certainly was one already there in 1351 when two new bells were added. They were dedicated to St Mary and St Laurence (the latter bell often known as ‘Auld Lowrie’). How they came to be gifted is intriguing. Tradition suggests that Provost William de Leyth [Leith] got into a quarrel with Baillie Catanach of Barkhill (near Berryden) which resulted in the death of the latter. In expiation for the crime, the two bells were given by William Leyth. The larger, Auld Lowrie, was about 4 feet across at the mouth and 3½ feet high, weighing about 4,000lb (1.8 tons). It must have been quite a feat getting it up the spire into position! Up to the Reformation it was only tolled on the anniversaries of the death of three successive chief magistrates, Fyffe, Roull and Davidson.

Auld Lowrie was recast in 1634 and continued in use with the other two bells until 1874. Additional bells were installed in 1794, 1802 and three in 1858 making a peal of eight. These were hung for change ringing i.e. chimed by swinging the bell using a rope. Complex permutations of sounding the bells, called changes are possible. These bells were sometimes used in this way and were reputed to have a very fine quality of sound.

The story of the drastic fire of 9th October 1874 was related in the Blog of 10th October 2015. All the bells were lost during the collapse of the spire. However, metal from the bells was recovered subsequently. Some was recast as bells, but some was used to make a lectern in the shape of a Pelican. This was used in the former East Kirk until 2004 and is now located in the West Kirk. The wooden stand is also made from wood recovered after the fire.  It is shown in the accompanying photographs.

Post 62 (a) Pelican lectern close up
Close up of pelican and chicks on lectern, made from remains of bells destroyed in 1874
Post 62 (b) Pelican Lectern full
Whole lectern, stand made from wood salvaged after fire in 1874